Khajuraho to Varanasi

When Michele and I re-planned our trip we found a non-stop train from Khajuraho to Varanasi, what a treat no transfer.
Varanasi, what a trip. This place was crazy in a cool way...... Mad windy streets, that make it easy to get lost. The ghats are full of magical energy; celebrating life and celebrating death. Pujas (prayers) for the health of the planet on one ghat, while on another the are discharging dead human remains into the river. Floating down the other side of the river in a row boat, Michele and I witnessed a human body being torn apart by a dog. The head had been removed and was laying on the ground close by, the ribcage showing fresh meat......I have flashed this image a few times since - how precious this human birth is.....
From Varanasi we spent the day in Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first teaching. Very quiet and peaceful and a sense of respect for the Dharma and a feeling that Bodhgaya is the right place to be traveling to.....

Nov 23rd: Agra to Khajuraho

So we cancelled a bunch of trains and re-booked 3, the first one we decided to treat ourselves to an a/c sleeper ( 3 times the price of regular sleeper). We are waiting at the train station at B1 our spot to board was B2 and the light next to B1 was out. So the train pulls in and no B2, I asked a policeman and he said in was at the other end of the train - we started moving fast and the train started pulling out, so we jumped on and got stuck in general class for the next 2 and 1/2 hours. The people were very welcoming though and we were ok with the mishap......you gotta love India. The day before we had arranged a pick-up and a hotel in Khajuraho. This fancy jeep picks us up at the new train station and whisks us down this brand new road to our hotel, which was very nice at rs300 a night. Life was good again! We rented bikes and cycled around the temples and local villages - Khajuraho is an excellent place to visit in India.

Agra and The Taj Mahal

Nice ride to our hotel..... Hotel is ok, but a little dark and dingy (best roof top views of the Taj though). The area if front of the Taj is a slice of India - noisy, dirty, packed little streets with cheap breakfast every where (Rs30 - eggs, toast and tea). The views of the Taj where amazing, but nothing like the experience of actually going inside the walls and being up-close and personal (even in the rain). We had planned to spend 3 nights in Agra, but we had started to get tired of traveling and Agra did not have much more than the Taj to offer, so we cancelled 8 trains and booked 3 new ones leaving Agra a day early and skipping out on the Tiger Safari we had planned (which was turning out to be a way overpriced scam). Next stop Khajuraho......

Jaisalmer via Jodphur to Agra

We had a night train on the 19th to Jodhpur. This is one of the situations that Michele and I find difficult. Hanging out in a town for the day with no place to retreat to. Before we left Jaipur we rented our room all the way up to the night (one hour before our train left) we were leaving and this made a big difference in our stress levels. The morning and afternoon where fine in Jodhpur, but as soon as we left the hotel area in the local business area, the noise and air pollution level sky rocket and it's hard to take when you are tired and want to escape - live and learn.

Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

We arrive in Jaisalmer Nov 16th in a bed of sand (I guess no surprise taking a train through the desert). I meet a man the night before and he offered us a free ride to his hotel at half the price (rs200) of our Lonely Planet pick. I agreed - so we had a quick jeep ride to this hotel that seemed a little to good to be true. The room was great, the roof top social floor seating with a grass hut was amazing. After the initial hammering us to buy one of their overpriced camel treks, our stay was excellent. Michele and I loved hanging out on the roof, chatting to fellow travelers and eating good food at a good price ($3 for dinner for two). Just for the experience on the third day we took a jeep 42km to sam dunes and experience a 5km camel ride, that was enough and we enjoyed the energy when all the locals gathered to watch the sunset.
The fort is the highlight of Jaisalmer, still very much a business center, with narrow winding streets, it was fun to view form a distance and to walk around inside.

Jaipur to Jodhpur, Rajasthan

Jodhpur was a breath of fresh air after Jaipur. The town is mad, but you don't experience it in the hotel area. We got a hassle free rickshaw ride to the hotel. Great room for the price and a relaxing couple of days walking around the fort. The usual mix of cows, goats, dogs, monkeys, (they have been in nearly all places that we have traveled to), chickens, donkeys, the odd elephant and camel and who knows what else - oh yeah, green parrots. Local people everywhere are lovely if they are not looking for something from you. Next stop the desert.....

Udaipur to Jaipur, Rajasthan

We left Udaipur after a very relaxing time there on November 9th: night train heading to Jaipur. Bang! Jaipur was a shock (train station pressure was high), we had a guy follow us down some side streets and we could not lose him. Finally I started telling him I was going to call the police and he left just before we entered our hotel (they are just looking for a commission, if they walk into the hotel with you then the management have to pay them a commission) that was recommended to us by a fellow traveler in Udaipur (nice spot also).
We could not get away from the dirt and pollution (including noise pollution) and Jaipur is on the high side. Michele and I started to realize that you can't escape India while you are in India, there are just different levels of the Glory and Wretchedness. A trip to Amber fort the next day was full of glory and when we got back to town a cycle rickshaw sight seeing trip to fake cottage shop-fronts was on the wretched side. After a long walk back to our hotel we were ready to stay close to home for a day. This has really helped Michele and I, when India gets to be too much have a down day. The following day we were fresh and we enjoyed our experience of the city center/old town.

Photo Link

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2083168&id=1075549684&l=8c8adf95a6

Udaipur - Rajasthan

After a long days traveling (3 hour bus, 9 train and another 9 hour train) we made it to Udaipur. Beautiful City feathered in the Bond movie Otopussy;1983. We stayed in the Lalghat Guest House - Highly recommended at 400 rupees a night for a double with a lake view. Eating at the small local places is rapidly becoming a favorite pass time.

After a couple of days viewing the local sights, we walked out of town a little to where the locals go. What a change of pace. We had enough space to interact with the locals on a basically good level - love them!
Next stop Jaipur: more smog, but many sights to see. I believe I'll try some yoga with Michele - shocking! We leave at 10:20 tonight on a sleeper train. I don't sleep well, but I do get rested and it's much better that day time travel.

Meeting other travelers is a very enriching experience. We have had a couple of late nights chatting; you also gain a lot of information (places to stay, things to watch out for and places to see).

All the best for now, and love from Mark and Michele
Photo Link:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2083168&id=1075549684&l=8c8adf95a6

India: Travelers Paradise?

So far Michele and I have figured that India is not a travelers paradise. Traveling here is very stressful, everything form catching trains to leaving the train station and finding a hotel. Too many people want to take advantage of you (or earn money from you is a better way of putting it), but we are becoming street wise very fast. You want to go to a specific hotel and they'll take you to any one but the one you are looking for, but we now know that we can report them if they are misbehaving.....

The trick is to take breaks. Landing in Diu has been a paradise. Very relaxed, no pressure form anyone. It has allowed us to rest up, clean our clothes and prepare for the next leg of our journey: Rajasthan - I'm quite excited now that I'm rested up and have booked a couple of hotels......

Check the facebook photo link for photos of Diu.....

More next time, love to you all.......

Link to Photos on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2083168&id=1075549684&l=8c8adf95a6

Mumbai Marine Drive Night Shot

Fort Collins, Colorado to Mumbai, India

We rented a car in Fort Collins, Oct. 7th and drove to Charlevoix, Michigan arriving on the 8th (1,300 miles). I met Michele's Dad for the first time. What a lovely, absolutely salt of the earth man. I really enjoyed meeting him and spending time with the rest of Michele's family. Michele's niece (Emily) was married on the 10th - beautiful wedding on Lake Michigan.

Oct. 13th we drove to Dayton, Ohio (500 miles) to spend a week with my daughter, Ciara. Great week, jammed with activity. Ciara's grandmother invited all of us over for dinner. Michele and I really enjoyed this and it had to be great for Ciara to see all of us get together (my ex Nichole, her boyfriend, Hersh, my ex father and mother in-law, Mike and Sue, Judy a close friend of the family, Ciara, Michele and I). Thank you to all for an amazing night.

Oct. 20th dropped Ciara off at school and said our last good-bye's for a while. Sad, but at the same time it has been a great year with Ciara (after Christmas in Colorado, Spring in Disney World with a bonus Space Shuttle launch, 7 weeks at Shambhala Mountain Center in the Summer and a week in Dayton, Ohio). We then drove to Chicago for our flight to India. The flight was great. We flew Edihad Airline out of Abu Dhabi, UAE voted the world's best airline in 2009. 3 full meals on the way over and I watched 5 full movies. They have on-demand movies, tv, even video games with your own 15" monitor. Food and service was excellent. Arrived in Mumbai, went outside to get a taxi and a man telling us that he worked for the airport and would help us get a taxi wanted 1,800 rupees (over $40), we knew not to pay more than $10. Michele suggested that we try the pre-paid taxis and the guy said oh yeah that will be a lot cheaper. You just can't believe what some of the people say.

The taxi ride to the hotel was crazy, even at 3:30 in the morning. Cars driving in all directions. Red lights don't mean anything, traffic cops would rather take a nap than direct traffic. We were pulled over (not sure what for, because this is what was going on: running a red light, nearly hitting 10 cars, just missing a bicycle, pedestrian or a 100 other things) and they quickly ushered us on once they saw Michele and I in the back. Looking out the window at all the slums, was a little shocking to say the least (14 million people live in slums in Mumbai, right next to billionaires in some area). The visual, smell and audio senses where fully overwhelmed. We where quite happy to make it to the hotel. Nice place, small by American standards, but we have a shower, and a real toilet in our room; even a fan to help with the 104 degree heat index.

Oct. 22nd - first day in Mumbai. Can you say overwhelmed! People lying on the street with no signs of life. Street kids, that break your heart. Beggars everywhere. Drunks and drug addicts. We took a boat to Elephanta Island, a world heritage site. I've never seen wild cows scavenging for food along with the dogs. Monkeys, hens, vultures, piles of crap been washed up on the beach. The caves were so so, but it was a nice break from the short few hours we were in the city. The city at night is mad, never slows down. The amount of stimuli just blows your mind.

Oct 23rd - day two. Quite a change of pace - we walked down Marine Drive. Quite and slow paced if you can say that for Mumbai. Back to the hotel early (5pm) to relax. Eat at a Muslim Restaurant next door to the hotel - we were invited in, but Michele was the only woman and felt a little uncomfortable to begin with. Lovely people and food (two soft bottled drinks and two dinners: $3). What does tomorrow have in store?

Bye, Bye: Shambhala Mountain Center

We left Shambhala Mountain Center this morning. A little feeling of sadness, a lot of feeling that it is time to move on (I don't say this in a bad way). Put a 18 hour day in yesterday in a final push to get ready to leave. We still have more stuff than we need. All in stages..........
I'm left with an overwhelming sense of gratitude to Shambhala Mountain Center for the opportunity to serve, practice, and personally grow. I thank the people that help create the container called SMC, because the world needs it............

Second Last Night at Shambhala Mountain Center

Finished Work - Sold Our Car

Finished work officially on Thursday. We drove to Boulder on Friday and sold our last car. Going to Fort Collins on Tuesday and off to Michigan on Thursday. Feeling a little groundless - feeling good. Soaking up Shambhala Mountain Center before we leave; I sure will miss this place. Photographing the stars tonight, thinking do I want to walk up to The Stupa? Down to a backpack in a couple of days - how exciting! India is on my mind, but Ciara takes first place.......

Map of India Destinations up-to Dec 5th

Travel Itinerary up-to Dec 5th

Oct 20th Leave the US for India

Oct 22st - Mumbai arrive at 2:50 am IST (morning)

Oct 23rd - Mumbai

Oct 24th - Mumbai

Oct 25th - Mumbai - Train to Aurangabad

Oct 26th - Aurangabad - Ajanta Caves

Oct 27th - Aurangabad Ellora/Daulatabad - 9:35 train back to Mumbai

Oct 28th - Mumbai to Ahmedabad Mumbai Central 9:45 Gujarat Mail 2901

Oct 29th - Ahmedabad - Arrive 6:20am

Oct 30th - Ahmadabad to Veraval - 22:00 Ahmedabad Jn

Oct 31st - Somnath

Nov 1st - Somnath

Nov 2nd - Somnath

Nov 3rd - Somnath

Nov 4th - Somnath

Nov 5th - Somnath to Udaipur City (UDZ) (Verala to Ahmedabad to Udaipur)

Nov 6th - Udaipur

Nov 7th - Udaipur

Nov 8th - Udaipur

Nov 9th - Train Udaipur to Jaipur

Nov 10th - Jaipur arrive at 6am

Nov 11th - Jaipur

Nov 12th - Jaipur

Nov 13th - Jaipur to Jodhpur Train 1am on the 14th

Nov 14th - Jodhpur arrive at 7am

Nov 15th - Jodhpur to Jaisalmer

Nov 16th - Jaisalmer Desert Trek arrive at 5pm

Nov 17th - Jaisalmer Desert Trek

Nov 18th - Jaisalmer Desert Trek

Nov 19th - Jaisalmer to Jodhpur 11:15 arrive 5:20am

Nov 20th - Train Jodhpur to Agra

Nov 21st - arrive in Agra at 6:35am

Nov 22nd - Agra

Nov 23rd - Agra

Nov 24th - Agra to Gwalior

Nov 25th - Gwalior

Nov 26th - Gwalior to Mahoba 9:15pm

Nov 27th - Mahoba to Khajuraho

Nov 28th - Khajuraho

Nov 29th - Khajuraho

Nov 30th - Khajuraho to Mohoba to Santa

Dec 1st - Satna to Umbria

Dec 2nd - Bandhavgarh

Dec 3rd - Umaria – Varanasi

Dec 4th - Varanasi (sarnath)

Dec 5th Varanasi to Gaya

Train Tickets

After registering and attempting to purchase train tickets on several different sites, I found success with: www.Cleartrip.com

Purchased train tickets from Mumbai to Aurangabad (visit Ajanta and Ellora Caves) for Oct. 25th. Depart 9:05pm Arrive 4:00am. Train # 7057/Devagiri Exp - Sleeper Class total: Rs. 352 for two. Also purchased return tickets to Mumbai train # 1402/Nandigram. leaving 27th at 9:35 - same price. I found this to be the best place to continue on our journey.

Shots

Michele and I went to the Travel Doctor today and got our shots for the trip.
Hepatitis A, Polio, Typhoid and Tetanus. We also got a prescription for Doxycycline for Malaria and Ciprofloxacin for Delhi Belly. Shots and visit: $320 per person..............

72 Days to-go......

We have our visas - slight delay due to not including Michele's birth cert. About a mounth turn-around. Looking at getting shots real soon. Some items purchased: lightweight sleeping bags, cable locks, blow-up pillows, travel towls, mosquito nets, steripen, money belts. Looking at new backpack - 100L ? Still thinking about clothes and other items. Keep you posted.....

Visas in the mail!

I took a special trip to Fort Collins today to FedEx Our visas to the outsourcing vendor. FedEx, what a ripoff: $15 each way for a couple of passports - USPS priority is only $5. But that is the way they want you to mail the visas and what can you do? It's all very objective given the battery of choices we have in today's society. If only there was an on off switch to that part of my brain that always compares things!

Tickets From Delhi to Dublin

We purchased our tickets to leave India today. Delhi to Dublin April 17th 2011 (3 days short of 6 months in India). Flying Etihad again, we'll give you feedback on this airline (i've read they are great). We will arrive in Dublin at 2:50pm on a sunny Sunday afternoon? Visas are ready to be shipped out on Monday. Looking good.......

In the interest of fairness

Preperation -

Two tickets to Mumbai - check
Home made passport photos (we'll let you know how these work out) - check
Mosquito net - check
New DL's with current address for visas - check
All things required for visa - check
light weight sleeping bags - check
travel guide - check
Notice to all the good people at Shambhala Mountain Center - check
Hotel booked for four nights in Mumbai - check
Money belts - check